Choosing an Iron That Keeps Its Heat—and Fits the Way You Work

Choosing an iron that keeps its heat—and fits the way you work

The best soldering iron for stained glass is not necessarily the model with the largest wattage number. It is the iron that can deliver useful heat through the right tip while remaining comfortable and controllable for the projects you make.

For most beginners and regular home-studio makers, our editorial pick is the Hakko FX-601. Practitioner sources repeatedly favor its convenient temperature adjustment and handling, although those recommendations reflect studio experience rather than controlled laboratory testing. The Weller W100PG, commonly retailer-listed as a 100 W iron, is the principal alternative for makers who prefer temperature-rated tips or conventional high-power construction.

Neither model has been independently shown by the supplied evidence to recover faster, produce more consistent beads, last longer, or cause less fatigue than the other. The final choice should reflect project scale, control preference, tip availability, handling, regional voltage, and the cost of the complete setup.

The short answer: which stained-glass soldering iron should you buy?

Quick picks

• Best overall for most beginners and hobbyists: Hakko FX-601
• Main alternative for long seams: Weller W100PG
• For occasional ornaments and small suncatchers: A reputable fixed-temperature stained-glass iron may be sufficient
• Most important feature to prioritize: Stable heat delivery through an appropriate chisel tip—not wattage alone

Best overall: Hakko FX-601

The Hakko FX-601 is the most broadly suitable choice for copper-foil panels, ornaments, suncatchers, and occasional came projects. Its handle dial allows temperature changes without waiting for the iron to cool and replacing the tip. That convenience is particularly useful while learning, when changes in solder, tip width, pace, room temperature, and project mass may call for small adjustments.

This is an editorial judgment based on practitioner consensus, not independent laboratory proof. A practitioner comparison recommends the FX-601 for most hobbyists while positioning the Weller as an option for makers working quickly on larger panels and long seams. It also emphasizes heat consistency, tip shape, and comfort over wattage alone. Read the practitioner comparison of the Hakko and Weller.

Hakko markets the FX-601 specifically as a dial-temperature stained-glass iron and describes its handpiece as slender and ergonomic. Those are manufacturer descriptions, not evidence that the tool prevents fatigue or outperforms competing irons. View Hakko USA’s stained-glass product range.

Main alternative: Weller W100PG

Choose the Weller W100PG if you prefer conventional 100 W construction and a temperature-rated tip system rather than a handle dial. Retailer listings show compatible tips in several widths and temperature ratings, allowing the iron to be configured for a selected operating point.

That should be understood as a workflow preference, not proof that the Weller recovers faster or produces better seams than the Hakko.

Sources also disagree about whether the Weller is primarily a beginner-value choice or a tool for experienced makers working on large panels. Those skill labels are less useful than the practical distinction: the Hakko changes temperature through a dial, while the Weller changes temperature through its tip.

For occasional ornaments and small suncatchers

Retailers offer lower-cost fixed-temperature stained-glass irons in 60 W and 100 W classes. These can be reasonable for occasional tack soldering, ornaments, and small suncatchers when frequent temperature changes are unnecessary. A retailer catalog, for example, lists fixed-temperature models alongside the adjustable Hakko and Weller systems. Compare retailer-listed stained-glass irons and tips.

The tradeoff is adaptability. A basic iron may require more pauses if its tip loses useful heat under load, and its fixed operating point may not suit every alloy, tip width, or project mass. The available evidence does not establish a dependable best-budget winner or compare the regulation, durability, and finished results of these lower-cost models.

For extended work sessions

For long sessions, prioritize:

• A handle that suits your grip
• Comfortable balance near the working end
• A cord that does not continually pull against your hand
• A convenient control system
• A secure holder positioned within easy reach
• A tip broad enough to transfer heat without prolonged dwell time

The Hakko’s dial and manufacturer-described slender handpiece make it the stronger general recommendation under these criteria. Comfort remains subjective, however. A handle that feels light and manageable to one person may feel narrow, long, or cord-heavy to another. Handle both irons before ordering if a local studio or retailer makes that possible.

No supplied source independently measures recovery speed, bead consistency, durability, grip temperature, cord drag, or fatigue over a defined work session. The FX-601 is therefore the best overall editorial pick, not a universally proven winner.

How the recommendations were evaluated

A useful stained-glass iron comparison must look beyond catalog wattage and promotional superlatives. These recommendations use five primary criteria.

1. Temperature stability and recovery under load

An iron can be hot while idle yet struggle once its tip touches a broad foil seam or came joint. Metal and solder draw heat from the tip, after which the heater and control system must restore the working temperature.

Wattage contributes to the system’s available electrical power, but it does not by itself establish thermal mass, transfer efficiency, control accuracy, temperature stability, recovery speed, or finished bead quality.

2. Control method

The four relevant arrangements are:

• A handle-mounted temperature dial
• Internal regulation through temperature-rated tips
• Fixed-temperature operation
• An uncontrolled iron paired with an external power controller

Each arrangement can provide useful heat in an appropriate setup, but they differ in convenience. A dial supports quick incremental changes. Temperature-rated tips provide a regulated operating point but require a physical tip change. Fixed heat is simple but less adaptable. An external controller changes delivered power rather than directly measuring tip temperature.

3. Compatible tip shapes and sizes

Tip geometry determines how effectively heat moves into the joint. A broad chisel makes more useful contact with a foil seam than a sharp electronics tip. Narrow tips help with tacking and confined decorative work, while larger chisels improve contact with long seams and heavier metal.

An iron with attractive specifications is a poor purchase if the appropriate seam tip is unavailable or replacement tips are difficult to obtain.

4. Ergonomics

These factors become more noticeable during extended sessions.

Ergonomics cannot be inferred reliably from a product photograph or a manufacturer’s use of the word “ergonomic.” Practitioner observations can help explain workflow, but they remain personal assessments.

5. Replacement parts and support

Before choosing an iron, confirm that its current tip series, holder, cleaning supplies, and other consumable parts are available in your region. A low initial price has limited value if suitable seam tips cannot be replaced.

Catalog breadth may indicate availability, but it does not establish quality, durability, repairability, service life, or technical support.

How to read the evidence labels

This guide distinguishes among four forms of evidence:

• Manufacturer fact or positioning: A specification or claim published by the maker. Useful for identifying design and accessories, but not independent proof of superiority.
• Retailer-listed specification: Wattage, voltage, tip dimensions, or temperature options published by a seller. Useful for shopping, but the current product label and manual should still be checked.
• Practitioner observation: A conclusion based on personal studio or teaching experience. Useful for understanding handling and workflow, but subjective.
• Editorial synthesis: A bounded recommendation created by comparing published specifications, practitioner observations, limitations, and project needs.

The available evidence includes affiliate-supported reviews, practitioner instruction, retailer catalogs, and manufacturer promotion. It does not include a standardized head-to-head test measuring temperature drop, recovery time, bead consistency, durability, or fatigue.

Products are therefore not ranked by star ratings, temporary prices, catalog size, or unsupported promises about eliminating cold joints. A higher wattage number or enthusiastic review cannot substitute for measured comparative performance.

Hakko FX-601 vs. Weller W100PG: the practical comparison

The central decision is between convenient dial adjustment and a subjectively manageable handpiece on the Hakko, and conventional 100 W construction with temperature-rated tips on the Weller.

Feature	Hakko FX-601	Weller W100PG
Published power	FX601-02 retailer listing: 67 W	Retailer listing: 100 W
Heater or regulation description	Retailer describes a ceramic heating element and built-in temperature regulation	Operating temperature is regulated through compatible temperature-rated tips
Temperature adjustment	On-handle dial; no tip removal required	Install a differently rated tip after the iron has cooled
Published temperature information	Practitioner guidance states 310–540°C; one retailer lists ten positions from 464°F to 1004°F	Replacement tips are listed with 700°F and 800°F ratings
Listed seam-tip sizes	Chisels listed at 2.4, 3.2, 5, and 6.5 mm	Several widths are sold, including broad stained-glass tips
Voltage consideration	FX601-02 is retailer-associated with 120 V North American use; verify the label	Verify the exact model label, plug, voltage, seller, and local supply
Handling evidence	Practitioners often call it lighter or more manageable; Hakko calls the handpiece slender	Some practitioners report greater weight, but comfort is subjective
Best fit	Makers who frequently change temperature or alternate among project types	Makers who prefer rated tips or conventional 100 W construction
Principal drawback	Lower published wattage may concern buyers; performance comparisons remain unverified	Changing temperature requires cooling and replacing the tip

A specialist retailer lists the North American FX601-02 as a 67 W, 120 V iron with a ceramic heating element. It lists an included T19-D5 chisel of approximately 5 mm, or 3/16 inch, plus chisel options at 2.4, 3.2, 5, and 6.5 mm. These are retailer-published specifications, not independent performance measurements. Review the retailer’s FX601-02 specifications.

A stained-glass retailer lists the W100PG as a 100 W iron controlled through interchangeable tips, with several widths and 700°F or 800°F ratings. The listing establishes the product format and available options; it does not show that the Weller recovers faster or produces a better seam than the Hakko.

A note about the published Hakko temperature ranges

The published lower limits do not agree. Practitioner guidance describes a 310–540°C dial range, while a retailer lists ten settings from 464°F to 1004°F, which is approximately 240–540°C. The upper limits broadly correspond, but the lower limits do not. Neither range is independently confirmed here, so buyers should inspect the scale and current instructions for the exact regional model. See the practitioner’s FX-601 range and operating guidance.

What the difference feels like in use

With the Hakko, the user can raise or lower the selected temperature while leaving the same chisel installed. That is convenient when changing solder alloy, moving between decorative details and ordinary seams, or finding that a larger project needs an adjustment.

With the Weller, the tip is part of the temperature-control arrangement. If another operating temperature is needed, the iron must cool before a differently rated tip is installed. Once configured, the system is straightforward: select the appropriate width and temperature rating, then work without routinely adjusting a dial.

The Weller format may appeal to makers who use one established setup for long runs. The Hakko may suit those who alternate among ornaments, panels, details, and came. Neither preference corresponds to a particular skill level, and neither model is independently proven to outperform the other.

Why the 67 W versus 100 W comparison is not as simple as it looks

Wattage is electrical power consumption. It is not a direct measurement of tip temperature, stored thermal energy, heat-transfer efficiency, regulation accuracy, or recovery time.

Four distinct ideas are involved:

1. Electrical power: The rate at which the iron uses electrical energy.
2. Target temperature: The operating point selected by a dial, thermostat, or rated tip.
3. Heat transfer: How effectively energy passes through the tip into the seam.
4. Recovery: How the heater and control system respond after the work draws heat away.

A 100 W rating indicates more potential electrical input than a 67 W rating, but it does not describe the complete thermal system. Heater placement, regulation, tip construction, contact area, and the mass of metal being heated also matter.

This is a practical shopping benchmark rather than a universal technical requirement. One retailer-authored guide assigns lower-powered tools to small suncatchers while recommending broader chisels and greater power for panel work; it also identifies regulation and tip geometry as important. Read the retailer’s project and wattage guidance.

Retailers and practitioners commonly attribute the FX-601’s usefulness to its ceramic heater and regulation despite the listed 67 W rating. Claims that it matches or exceeds conventional 100 W irons are promotional or experience-based and have not been independently verified.

Match the iron to the project

Small ornaments and occasional suncatchers: A fixed-temperature 60 W stained-glass iron may be adequate when seams are short and use is infrequent. It offers less reserve and adaptability, so pauses may be necessary if the tip cools.

Ordinary copper-foil panels: Regulated heat becomes more useful. The iron should maintain a workable temperature while moving through several seams without constant stops.

Long seams and larger panels: Recovery, tip contact, and comfortable handling become increasingly important. Both the FX-601 and W100PG deserve consideration, with the choice driven by control preference and local tip availability.

Lead or zinc came and heavy joints: Greater metal mass draws more heat from the tip. A broad chisel and suitable operating temperature can be as important as the iron’s published power rating.

A larger tip may solve an apparent power problem

If an iron melts solder but leaves a thick line that resists smoothing, the first response need not be buying a higher-wattage tool or selecting maximum heat.

A larger chisel tip may provide a more useful contact patch and transfer heat into the joint more effectively. Before replacing the iron, also check whether the existing tip is narrow, oxidized, poorly tinned, or touching the seam only along one edge.

A 100 W label does not guarantee smooth beads. Tip condition, solder alloy, flux, foil gaps, travel speed, dwell time, and technique all affect the result. Wattage is one input, not a quality score.

Dial control, thermostatic tips, fixed heat, and rheostats

Stained-glass irons use several arrangements that are sometimes grouped together as “temperature control.” They do not work in the same way.

Dial-controlled iron

The FX-601 represents this arrangement. The user selects an operating point with a handle dial, and the regulation system attempts to restore that temperature after the joint draws heat away.

Its primary advantage is convenience. Temperature can be changed without replacing the tip, making the system suitable for users who regularly change alloy, project mass, tip width, or working pace.

Internally regulated iron with temperature-rated tips

The Weller W100PG uses interchangeable temperature-rated tips instead of a handle dial. The installed tip determines the operating point. Selecting another temperature requires allowing the iron to cool and installing a differently rated tip.

This remains a regulated approach. Its drawback is not a lack of temperature control but the inconvenience of changing the control point. Makers who use one preferred tip and temperature for most work may not consider that a serious limitation.

Fixed-temperature iron

A fixed-temperature iron is designed around one normal operating range. It is simple and often less expensive, but it gives the user fewer ways to adapt the tool to different alloys, project masses, tip sizes, and working speeds.

That simplicity can be acceptable for occasional small projects. For mixed studio work, it may require compromises in pace or tip selection.

Uncontrolled iron with an external power controller

A rheostat or similar external controller reduces the power delivered to an iron. It does not directly sense the tip and maintain a selected temperature.

Reducing power can make an iron heat and recover more slowly. During soldering, the seam continues to draw heat while the controller limits the energy available for recovery. By contrast, a temperature-controlled iron can provide more power when the tip cools as it attempts to return to its operating point. See the specialist explanation of rheostats and regulated irons.

An external controller can still be useful when paired with an uncontrolled iron and when both products are intended to work together. Do not assume that it is compatible with an internally regulated tool. Retailer guidance specifically cautions against adding an external controller to an internally thermostatic Weller without first checking the tool specifications. Review the controller compatibility caution.

For most beginners purchasing a primary iron, built-in regulation is the clearer option: choose the FX-601 for convenient dial changes or the Weller for a rated-tip system.

Choose the tip before chasing a hotter iron

For ordinary stained-glass seams, the default choice is a broad, flat chisel tip, not the sharply pointed tip commonly supplied with an electronics iron.

A chisel presents a larger contact surface to the foil and solder, helping transfer useful heat into the seam. A practical starting width for common copper-foil work is approximately 3/16 to 1/4 inch, although the best size depends on seam width, project mass, and working style.

Project-to-tip guide

Project or task	Practical starting tip	Why
Small decorative details	Narrow chisel or pointed tip	Provides access around small joins and ornamentation
Tack soldering	Narrow chisel or pointed tip	Places a small amount of solder at selected joints
Standard copper-foil seams	3/16- to 1/4-inch chisel	Balances control, contact area, and bead width
Long foil seams	1/4-inch or broader chisel	Increases contact area and heat transfer
Lead came	Broad chisel suited to the joint	Transfers heat into a larger metal area
Zinc came	Broad chisel with sufficient dwell time	Zinc generally takes longer to heat than lead
Three-dimensional work	Narrow chisel, pointed, or bent tip as access requires	Reaches angled joints without forcing an awkward hand position

A pointed tip can be useful for tacking and fine decorative work, but it should not be credited with preventing glass cracks.

Hakko FX-601 tip choices

Retailer-published T19-series chisel sizes for the FX601-02 include:

• 2.4 mm
• 3.2 mm
• 5 mm
• 6.5 mm

The listed included T19-D5 is approximately 5 mm, or 3/16 inch, making it a sensible starting tip for ordinary copper-foil seams. The narrower choices suit details, while the 6.5 mm option is close to 1/4 inch and offers a broader contact area.

Practitioner guidance reports that Hakko, Weller, and Studio Pro tips are not interchangeable. Verify both the exact iron model and tip family before ordering replacements.

Lead and zinc came

For came work, begin with a broad chisel suited to the joint rather than a small point. The objective is to transfer heat efficiently without lingering unnecessarily over the surrounding area.

Practitioner troubleshooting guidance reports that zinc normally takes longer to heat than lead and that a larger tip can help when thick solder is difficult to smooth. Read the came and tip-size troubleshooting guidance.

Do not automatically treat slow solder flow as proof that the iron lacks power. First inspect the tip’s width, cleanliness, tinning, and contact with the joint. A narrow or oxidized tip can make a capable iron feel underpowered.

Starting temperature and what the solder is telling you

Approximately 700°F is a practical starting region for common stained-glass soldering. It is not a universal target and does not guarantee smooth beads, sound joints, or protection against overheating.

For the Hakko FX-601, practitioner guidance suggests starting around 360–410°C and adjusting gradually in response to solder behavior. The same guidance reports that 50/50 solder requires more heat than 60/40, while lead-free blends generally require more heat without prescribing one setting for every formulation.

The appropriate working point changes with:

• Solder alloy and formulation
• Tip width, condition, cleanliness, and tinning
• Foil, wire, decorative additions, lead, or zinc
• Panel size and seam length
• Room temperature
• Working speed
• Contact angle and dwell time
• Flux and joint preparation

The dial number is therefore a starting point for observation, not a universal recipe.

Signs that the joint may need more useful heat

Solder that remains rough, thick, lumpy, or reluctant to flow may indicate insufficient heat at the joint. Before substantially raising the temperature, check:

1. Is the tip clean and properly tinned?
2. Is the tip broad enough for the seam?
3. Is the appropriate flux present?
4. Is the tip making flat contact rather than touching at one corner?
5. Are you moving too quickly for the project mass?
6. Is the iron recovering between long sections?
7. Does the solder alloy normally require more heat?

If these factors are in order, increase the setting gradually. A larger chisel may improve transfer without requiring a higher selected temperature.

Signs that you may have too much heat or dwell time

If solder runs rapidly through a seam or collects on the reverse side, excessive heat or prolonged dwell time may be involved. Reduce the setting or shorten the time spent in one place, but inspect the construction as well.

Temperature adjustment cannot correct a poorly fitted joint.

Rapidly scorched flux or solder that becomes difficult to control may also indicate that the working point is too aggressive for your pace. Adjust in small steps rather than searching for one supposedly perfect number.

Use the solder as feedback

A suitable combination of temperature, tip, and pace should let the solder flow while remaining controllable. If you must hold a narrow tip in place for an extended period, try a broader chisel before selecting maximum heat. If solder immediately runs away, reduce heat or dwell time and inspect the gaps.

These are observational cues, not promises. No single setting can prevent every cold joint, leak, or damaged piece because the iron is only one part of the process.

Buying checklist: voltage, tips, accessories, and total setup

A good iron with the wrong voltage or tip system is not a good purchase. Check the complete model number and product label before ordering, particularly when buying through a marketplace or overseas seller.

Regional Hakko FX-601 checklist

Practitioner and retailer guidance commonly associates the models as follows:

Model	Commonly associated market and supply
FX601-01	100 V, Japan
FX601-02	120 V, North America
FX601-17	230 V, Europe and the UK

These associations are shopping guidance, not substitutes for inspecting the current tool. Verify:

• The complete model number
• Voltage and wattage on the product label
• Plug type
• Local electrical supply
• Current manufacturer documentation
• Seller location and authorization
• Regional warranty eligibility
• Compatibility of replacement tips and accessories

Do not assume that a voltage converter makes a wrong-market iron appropriate. The specialist retailer listing for the 120 V FX601-02 gives no assurance that it will operate properly through a converter in a 220–230 V country. Buy the regional version intended for the local supply instead. Check the retailer’s FX601-02 voltage warning.

A reputable or manufacturer-authorized dealer may reduce uncertainty about model version, support, and compatible parts, but dealer status alone does not prove authenticity. Inspect the label, packaging, documentation, voltage, and warranty terms.

Budget for the complete setup

The iron is only one part of the purchase. A practical setup normally includes:

• A stable, heat-resistant holder specified for the iron
• A broad chisel tip appropriate for ordinary seams
• A narrow or detail tip if required
• Manufacturer-approved tip-cleaning supplies
• Appropriate tip-tinning supplies
• Work-surface protection specified for hot-tool use
• Any ventilation or fume-control equipment required by current manufacturer and material safety instructions
• Access to replacement tips

Follow the iron manufacturer’s instructions and the safety documentation supplied with solder, flux, cleaners, and other materials. This buying guide does not replace product-specific guidance on exposure control, handling, disposal, or first aid.

Hakko lists holders, a smoke absorber, tip-cleaning products, replacement tips, iron covers, and a cap kit among its stained-glass accessories. That range can help with setup planning, although it does not mean every accessory is required in every studio. See Hakko’s listed stained-glass accessories.

A specialist retailer warns that the FX-601 protective cap must not be installed while the iron is powered and is not a substitute for a proper holder. Keep a powered iron in a stable holder intended for the hot tool, following the current product instructions.

Compare total setup, not just the iron price

Two irons with similar shelf prices can produce different checkout totals once you add:

• A holder
• The preferred seam-tip width
• A detail tip
• Tip cleaner and tinner
• Surface protection
• Any required fume-control equipment
• Shipping and taxes

Prices, availability, and included accessories vary by seller and region, so no fixed total is offered here. Any advertised price should be treated as a dated, seller-specific snapshot rather than a stable market value.

Replacement-tip supply deserves particular attention. If local suppliers stock the correct Weller tips but not Hakko T19 tips—or the reverse—that availability may reasonably outweigh a small difference in initial price.

Final pre-purchase checklist

Before ordering, ask:

• Do I prefer a handle dial, temperature-rated tips, or fixed heat?
• Are most of my projects ornaments, standard foil panels, or long seams?
• Do I want a 3/16-inch or 1/4-inch general-purpose chisel?
• Can I obtain the exact replacement-tip series locally?
• Does the handle suit my grip?
• Will the cord pull against my hand or workspace?
• Is the model’s voltage correct for my local supply?
• Can I verify the seller and product label?
• Does the package include a proper holder?
• Have I budgeted for approved cleaning and tinning supplies?
• Have I checked the current tool and material safety instructions?

For most home-studio copper-foil work, the Hakko FX-601 remains the most broadly useful practitioner-backed choice, particularly for makers who want convenient dial adjustment and several chisel-tip options. Choose the Weller W100PG when you prefer temperature-rated tips or conventional 100 W construction.

The best purchase is the correctly rated regional model fitted with an appropriate chisel tip, supported by readily available replacements, and comfortable in your hand. That combination matters more than the largest wattage number or strongest marketing claim.

Frequently asked questions

Is the 67 W Hakko FX-601 powerful enough for stained-glass panels?

For ordinary home-studio copper-foil panels, it is a reasonable and widely recommended choice. The 67 W figure is a retailer- and label-reported specification; it does not by itself describe heat transfer or recovery. Practitioner reports attribute the iron’s usefulness to its ceramic heater, regulation, and compatible chisel tips.

That does not prove it will match every 100 W iron or sustain every production workload. For especially long seams or heavier metal, use an appropriate broad chisel, allow recovery when needed, and consider whether the Weller’s conventional construction better fits your workflow.

Is the Hakko FX-601 or Weller W100PG better for a beginner?

The Hakko FX-601 is the easier general recommendation because its handle dial lets a beginner adjust temperature without cooling the tool and replacing the tip.

The Weller can still be a suitable first iron for someone who prefers to select a temperature-rated tip and leave the setup unchanged. Practitioner sources apply conflicting beginner and expert labels to the Weller, so the better decision is based on control preference, project scale, handling, and local tip supply—not skill level alone.

What size soldering-iron tip is best for copper-foil stained glass?

Start with a broad chisel approximately 3/16 to 1/4 inch wide. A 3/16-inch tip offers useful control for ordinary seams, while a 1/4-inch tip provides a broader contact area for longer or heavier runs.

Use a narrower chisel or pointed tip for tacking and fine details. Consider a broader chisel for long seams, lead came, zinc came, or heavy joints. Verify that the tip series fits the exact iron model.

Can I use a rheostat with a temperature-controlled stained-glass iron?

Do not assume that you can. A rheostat reduces delivered power rather than directly sensing and maintaining tip temperature. Adding one to an internally controlled iron may interfere with how that iron heats and recovers.

Check the current manual and manufacturer instructions for both devices. Compatibility depends on the specific iron and controller, so it would be inaccurate to say that an external controller is always safe—or that it always causes damage.

Which Hakko FX-601 model is correct for my country’s voltage?

The commonly cited regional associations are:

• FX601-01: 100 V, Japan
• FX601-02: 120 V, North America
• FX601-17: 230 V, Europe and the UK

Verify the current product label, plug, local electrical supply, seller authorization, and warranty eligibility before ordering. Do not rely solely on a marketplace title or assume that a voltage converter makes a wrong-region model appropriate.